RNG35

Hi guys,

Can the image on the Canon XH-A1 be flipped using magnets like on the V20, if so where do you place the magnet?

Thanks!

Harry

Well, I tried moving a magnet around my XH-A1 and surely it does not use magnetic reed switches for display flipping. My only guess now is that it uses those tiny leaf switches so I'll have to open it up and probably do a mod like the one I've seen the Cinevate Brevis 35 forum:

http://cinevate.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=518

We need more people (existing owners) contributing to this forum:!:

I have tested 2 methods to flip the image which would go in front of the LCD screen itself (so no light loss). using 2 mirrors and a macro lens (convex lens) about 5cm away (if its right in front of the LCD then it doesn't flip) which actually works but would need get a larger glass to fit the whole size of the LCD. the other method was I ripped out the viewfinder from an slr lens so both methods work just would need to build something so it can just slot onto an LCD screen, but I got no tools for that.

harry wrote:We need more people (existing owners) contributing to this forum:!:

Wondering how many rng users are actually out there?

Pete,

The current user to customer ratio is 4:1 which is to say that for every registered user here there are four people who bought the RNG35. That might even be a little inaccurate considering that there are probably a few registered forum users that have not purchased so it might even be 5:1.

I am guessing this may be the norm for adapter customers of those who buy compared to how many actually post on the forums.

I do agree though, I would love to see more customers posting links and footage.

After reading about the guys who hacked their HV20 over on the HV20/30 forum, I decided to have a look for myself at how the XH-A1 deals with image flip. (I apologise for the blurry snaps - my crappy Kodak digital does not have macro function)

Here's a view of the camera with opened LCD case:



Here is the part that you really want to open up - the LCD casing:


The switch is actually located just under the grey multi-core cable:
(the vignette is caused by the SLR lens I took the photo through to get this macro shot.)


My biggest disappointment is that the XH-A1 does not have a left-to-right flip switch so even though the image will be upright, any horizontal movement will be in reverse.

At this point I don't see where a switch could be mounted into or around the LCD casing because there is very little room.

As most of my work is hand-held my only solution at this point is to simply hold the camera upside down. Considering that a lot of independent film makers use the XH-A1 I'm certain that it would be a no brainer for Canon to simply implement a flip function for 35mm DOF users in the camera's software (JVC already has this as a menu option in all their Pro-HD cameras).

At the end of the day for me shooting run'n'gun events a cumbersome & heavy rig with optical flip and rail support is simply not practical.

Pete, thanks for your suggestion of using mirrors, my only fear with that setup is how practical it would be to keep this kind of setup mounted without it falling off or breaking. Do you have any pictures of your setup?

Hope this helps someone out there.

Cheers,
Harry

I don't have one to show as I was simply experimenting to see how it could be done. This is more of a suggestion for Adapter makes like Tracey to maybe look into and build something that could work. I think with the right type of materials ie. SLR viewfinder mirrors are feather weight and a square type lens could work quiet well and light weight.

Okay... I went ahead and did it by the very simple addition of a mini SPST sliding switch available at any electronics shop.

Simply remove the 3 screws holding the back shell of the LCD and pry it apart. You might need to use some force because it is clips down around the perimeter. Don't worry it wont snap as it is made of very flexible plastic - just be gentle on the LCD panel - don't twist it!!

Once you've got it open you'll see a pair of black & white wires (they are the only pair visible). These need to be cut as they will be soldered to the switch as shown below:



Once that's done you will need to dig out some of the plastic ribbing in the cavity to fit the switch body & also cut a small slot on the edge of the casing (both sides) to allow the switch toggle to protrude. I used a low wattage soldering iron with an old tip and simply melted some of the plastic away and then finished off the edges with a sharp knife (you could also use a Dremel tool if you have one). Then I filled the space with a little epoxy glue and placed the switch in it and left it to dry.



Then I popped the back shell back on and that's it!!



Here's the view from the bottom:



Apologies for the blurry photos (I really need to get myself a proper digital camera.)

Enjoy!